Sunday, September 13, 2009

Today I spoke with a man named Majd Almeer.
He was exactly one hour late for the interview.
"The Emir was leaving his palace so they closed all the streets," he explained.
He arrived wearing a Thobe, making it all the more official.
He has written many articles on Qatari history and Pearling. They, along with any other related literature, are in Arabic; so he is having some of this literature translated for me. He is itching for someone to share his massive amounts of information with. After I emailed and asked for a time to set up an interview, he met with the Ministry of Culture and was given permission to access to anything he might need to help me with this article.
Whatever I wanted to get out of this interview, I got it, and much more (with the exception of a personal diving tour with underwater camera equipment- but don't think I didn't ask).
The history of Qatar, and most of the gulf, is incredibly complicated. And after 2 hours, I think I might have a little piece of the puzzle figured out.
Qatar, before the Al-Thanis (current Royal family), were ruled by a tribe called Al Khalifa until till the early 1900's (don't quote me on the dates just yet) before they were overtaken by the Al Thanis. The Al Thani tribe came from a tribe known as Tameem. The Tamimi tribes were quite possibly the biggest in Arabia. Their members numbered in the millions. About 100 years ago, the Tameem tribe, along with many other tribes, went to war with King Abdullah Azziz Ibn Saud (Saudi Arabia) under a man called bil Khathleen (this spelling is WRONG). The reason for this war is too complex to go into; (something about a Mohammad bin Abdul Wahab and the Wahabi teachings, which have since been renounced due to their speculated promptings of the jihad...) basically it was a religious dispute (shock) and I fear that some of you may have already lost interest.
Back to the war-
King Saud only had about 300 men, and his enemies knew this. The only reason that King Saud was so respected was because he had Islamic scholars behind him and therefore gained fear and respect from most of the Arabian Gulf. But the tribes went to war nonetheless, expecting an absolute victory while outnumbering the Saudi army by thousands upon thousands. What they didn't know was that King Saud had made a pact with the British, and was supplied with machine guns, while bil Khathleen's men had only swords. The tribes were massacred by King Saud's men. The tribesmen and warriors remaining (those that didn't surrender their allegiance to King Saud) scattered all over the middle east. The Tameem tribe went to Qatar, where they defeated the current ruling tribe, Al Khalifa, on Zubara fort. The Al Thani family was only called Al Thani after Jassim bin Mohammad Al-Thani (al Tamimi) fought and won al Wajba war against the Ottomans (1890's) and gave himself a new name to differentiate himself and his ruling tribe from the previous Tamimis. Wikipedia begins its history of Qatar with the Al-Thani tribe. (Although, Mr. alMeer said that he was going on Wikipedia tonight to fill in the gaps).
Still awake?
The Tameem tribe (now Al Thani) were an absolutely fierce people. There is an Arabic saying that goes, "if it wasn't for Islam, Tameem would have eaten all Arabic tribes."
Before Islam, the Tamimi defeated Persia 10,000 soldiers to 100,000.
Even the the Prophet spoke of the Tamimi tribes as very strong and feirce people.
If a member of a Tameem tribe has a son that is killed in battle, the parents would take the news with great honor and would celebrate the event.
"they killed for fun" says Mr. Almeer.
If they were thirsty they would kill their camels and take the water from their stomachs.
For energy, they would mix sand with water, AND THEY WOULD DRINK IT. (holy mother of all bad asses). Apparently there are some minerals in the sand that can provide some kind of sustenance.
The Tameem existance was a wretched one. Qatar is an absolutely dry country, and it took a certain kind of person just to try and survive here, let alone succeed. Pearling and fishing (and moving) were the only means of survival for many of the inhabitants here.

Majd Almeer comes from generations of Pearlers. He comes from both the poor and the rich side of Pearling, making his information all the more objective. His father's father was a Tawash, a wealthy trades man and buyer of pearls. His mother's father, on the oposite side of the spectrum, was a poor pearl diver. The Tawash would meet the boats in the water as they sailed to shore from a season of pearling, and he would buy the pearls from the captain aboard the ship. The Tawash would buy the pearls while on board the ship so the that divers wouldn't get cut out of their share of the money.
The Tawash were born wealthy, and with this wealth they would buy pearls, and take them to India, or other places where they would trade them for other goods. To my surprise, pearls were traded, not sold. And the pearls themselves didn't make anyone wealthy (at least not in the gulf); they were bought by people who were already rich. The divers themselves would make little to nothing, living off of peanuts while working the hardest and facing the most danger.
Each man, while diving, was attached to a rope that was held by another man aboard the ship. Many ropes were cut during the dives either by rocks, sword fish, sharks, and other things. If the rope was cut, the diver had to swim his way (10- 20 meters) to the surface- a very difficult thing to do with no air in your lungs.
The last man that I interviewed (the pearl man) told me that giant clams (dr. doolitle style) would literally close on the divers and prohibit them from re-surfacing.
I didn't believe him.
But apparently this DID actually happen- Mr. Almeer told me of a man that died in the sea while diving for pearls because a giant clam closed on his arm, and he lost too much blood. He said they have tiny little teeth, and when they shut, they can't be opened.
There was at least one singer aboard each ship. The singers were also divers, and their renowned voices were attributed to their ability to hold their breath under water for so long.
By the end of the interview, Majd Almeer was telling me folklore and (get ready) literally singing me songs of the pearl divers.
He sang one that was about the mothers who would lament for their sons and husbands as they boarded the ships. He translated the song, which was truly heart wrenching- and told me that his mother (whose father was a pearl diver) used to cry every time she heard the song.
Ladies and gentlemen,
I got a little teary eyed.


Saturday, September 5, 2009






after hours of wandering around Bida park in Doha, Qatar, i finally found 'the pearl man.'
Abdulla Nassir (the spelling is questionable at best) comes from a family of pearl divers. he has gone pearl diving many times, mostly off the coast of Oman, but unlike his father and his grandfather, he had the luxury of diving gear.
his english made it difficult to ask specific questions, but on the whole, the interview was a success.
the man was about my height, and super spunky.
with a devious little smile.
he had an abundance of information about pearl diving than anyone in qatar, and was more than happy to share it.
once he knew that i was serious about my inquiries, and not just a passer-by,
he went to the back of his store and returned with pearls that were worth tens of thousands of dollars. pearls that were more than 50 years old, retrieved from the ocean floors of qatar, bahrain and kuwait.
according to him, men from all over the gulf (saudi, kuwait, bahrain, oman, qatar, abu dabi, dubai, etc...) would sail in small boats (that would comfortably fit 30 people) with 150 men per boat, and up to 1000 boats at a time. they would leave in may, and would not return to land until september or october depending on their success.
after hours of diving up to 20 meters meters to the ocean floor, the men were allotted three tiny tiny TINY little cups of water a day. one in the morning, afternoon and evening.
he showed me the cup-shaped corral that the divers would drink out of.

when i asked about the songs of the pearl divers, i was given more information than i knew what to do with. apparently, there were different songs that were sung for different actions. the divers would carry drums aboard the ships, and they would sing a certain song when the first sail went up, and another for the second, larger sail.
when they had to pull the anchor, there were men that would beat a drum and chant to boost morale. apparently the anchors were absolutely monstrous.
when i asked if i could hear any traditional songs like this, he promptly got on the phone with one of the most well known and respected musicians in the gulf (his name escapes me)
and is going to bring cd's for me next week.
in addition to massive amounts of pearls and sea-shells, Abdulla Nassir let me have a peak at his antique collection. he showed me opium pipes from China, silver castings from mongolia, jewelry boxes from the forbidden city, a pearl scale from 1720. how he acquired these treasures is 'forbidden information.'
next week, same time, same place- im bringing a camera corder this time and will report back with more of the same-

the pearl man