Monday, September 28, 2009


I went to Souq Wagef again tonight... this may have been my 8th or 9th time.
It is, in fact, my favorite place in Doha.

It is far from original, as the authentic souq was torn down to be rebuilt (and made to look old, just like the original- wtf) about ten years ago.
But inside of the souq are still some of the same Qatari store owners whose austere presence and unbelievable kindness make me feel like I am in a real place, and not in a saran wrapped bubble.

Plastic cities and cultures are popping up all over the world, and I should know best, coming from the United States; but plastic is plastic and no matter where I am, I don't like it.
None have developed so fast and gregariously as they have in the Gulf.
As a result, the history and cultural traditions of Qatar are disappearing with a similar quickness.

Gulf pearls (especially from Bahrain and Qatar) were valued more than any in the world. Some thing in the sea beds of Qatar and Bahrain made the pearl's brilliance, color, shape and size superior to that of any other pearls. The pearls were taken to pearl trading centers in Dubai and Bahrain after which they were shipped to India where they were in high demand by Maharajas for lavish decorations; and what was left was sent to Kings and Queens in Europe.

these are Tasas which pearls were sifted through and sorted by size



and this is a tiny little pearl scale

Pearling was much more than a livelihood in Qatar. It was the ONLY livelihood, and everything was centered around it. The Tawwash (pearl traders), when they weren't buying or selling pearls, they were gathered together at a coffee shop in Souq Wagef to discuss the pearl market inside and outside of their region.
During the off season, Pearl divers and marine entertainers would congregate at Duoor (specific houses) to practice different forms of Nahmah (marine entertainment). Nahmah was the most essential component of pearl diving which included the songs, poems (Mawwal), chants and other rituals that were performed on the boats to enhance and encourage the working spirts of the pearl divers. These artistic forms of expression were not taken lightly, and involved the entire community. The poets and singers were highly respected artists who were a foundational structure of Qatari coastal communities. Any action that was performed in relation to pearl diving, including ship building, the hoisting of the sails, the departure and return of the divers, and much more, was accompanied by a specific Nahmah ritual. This practice was cherished and loved to such a degree that it became a common practice even during the winter months when pearl diving was not in season.
It is worth noting that through out history, Arabs (city, coastal and Bedouin alike), have found ways to maintain a high morale, good humor and a ripe spirit even in the dimmest of circumstances.

In the 1940's two things happened which contributed to the demise of pearl diving. The Japanese Cultivated Pearl flooded the market with such force that a G1 Dhana pearl (best quality) went from 5,000 rupees a Shoo (like a Karat) to 50 rupees. the other contributing factor was India's independence in 1947. India in the 1900's (and much earlier) was Qatar's biggest pearl buyer as well as the largest pearl market in the world. After they gained independence, an abrupt halt was put on imports of luxury goods. Qatar underwent one of the most devastating recessions known to the Gulf. Pearl diving was replaced with destitution and poverty. The population in Qatar decreased from 25,000 to 10,000.

The transition from a life of extreme toil and hardship to a life of lavish luxury happened quickly and without deliberation.
Oil was discovered and money swept across the Gulf like a sandstorm.

Pearls soon became a luxury to the Gulf inhabitants instead of a livelihood. Woman of the Gulf began to acquire a taste for pearl jewelry which they had never worn until this point.
It was also around this time that the demand for the Gulf pearl rose again. It became evident to pearl collectors that the cultivated pearl lost its glister and shape while a natural pearl stayed true for many many years.
Diving although, was no longer practical in the Gulf, so the same people in the Gulf that sold the pearls (Tawwash) went back to their buyers in India and Europe to retrieve the same pearls that they sold.
Today, the Gulf pearl is high in value and demand, and low in quantity.
But maybe, just maybe, I can get my paws on one little pearl to take home with me.
That would be worth many hours of wandering around the Souq, which I will do regardless.
The shop owners at Souq Wagef are starting to recognize me. And each time I go I make a new friend. There is one old Qatari shop owner that invites me into his tiny little shop every time he sees me.
And each time I go I stay for long periods of time while he sits on the floor and tries to speak to me in broken english and serves me tea and coffee and gives me little trinkets. In two hours, I take away about 2 complete sentences. The rest is gibberish and I love it. His hospitality and surreal kindness communicate more than words could translate.







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